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The Rhine is famous for many things – crumbling castles, romantic landscapes, picturesque resorts nestled within snug medieval defences. But even the most generous soul would have to concede that food is not one of them.
So a week spent on a river cruise, exploring the dramatic valleys of one of Europe's most famous rivers, seemed to promise a feast of beer and Bratwürste – not an unpleasant prospect, but hardly the stuff of foodie dreams.
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Clichés are clichés for a reason, of course, and ultimately no dainty morsel of nouvelle cuisine would have hit the spot like the pretzels and Pilsner served on deck as our ship, the Viking Sun, sailed through the spectacular Rhine Gorge. But, as I discovered, the river has much more to offer the hungry traveller.
On board, we were served local specialities such as kugelhopf — a buttery, fluted sponge that is half-bread, half-cake.
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A generous breakfast buffet, including Black Forest ham and berry compote, whetted appetites for a day's exploring. Meals served on board are all included, and made the most of the region's fabulous fresh produce and wines. Special mention must go to the excellent apple strudel served at the gala dinner: warm, fruity proof of the German passion for simple, good food.
There’s also a growing population of fish in the Rhineland, including trout, bream and carp – but in my opinion the best produce is to be found on dry land.
Nothing could have prepared me for the national frenzy provoked by the brief asparagus season, which ends in late June. Every restaurant, from humble beer halls to Michelin-starred eateries, has a menu dedicated to die Spargel. A very different beast to our own slender green stems, these fat, white spears are grown in the dark to preserve their milky colour, and have a mild, nutty flavour. Invariably served drenched in rich hollandaise sauce or wrapped in cured pork (well, this is Germany), they’re a truly seasonal delicacy, and priced accordingly.
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But asparagus wasn’t the only thing we saw growing as we ambled through sun-drenched fields. For, as our tour guide observed, the Rhineland is “the garden of Germany”. This is a landscape bright with cherry trees and almond blossom, where the sweetest strawberries give way to red and white currants and fruits of the forest — a fact celebrated in the infamous Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte, better known as that grand finale of 1960s dinner parties — Black Forest gâteau.
I watched, fascinated, as the chef in a wayside inn carefully assembled the layers of chocolate sponge, |
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doused with generous amounts of fiery Kirschwasser and unfeasible amounts of rich cream, and topped it all with cherries and shavings of chocolate.
A similar sight may well have inspired the young Marie Antoinette – who stopped off at the very same spot on her way to the court of Louis XVI - to utter, “Let them eat cake.” For who could resist such a decadent creation?
Fruit isn’t just for eating, though. Our cruise happened to take us through one of Germany’s finest wine regions. The Rheingau is celebrated for its elegant, aromatic Rieslings. Its vineyards — many so steep they must be worked entirely by hand – tower above the river. A tour of hospitable winemakers is a lovely, if potentially pricy, way to spend an afternoon. Local towns are teeming with wine cellars, where one can sample the full range of styles, from dry Trocken Rieslings and minerally Pinot Noirs (known as Spätburgunder), to the sticky sweet pleasures of an after-dinner glass of Beerenauslese dessert wine, in a relaxed, pub atmosphere.
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Forget anything you’ve heard about drinking on an empty stomach and go hungry. The vast selection of snacks — spicy cream cheese, slices of salami, paprika-spiked nuts and salty pretzels – in your average Weinstube is so vast that it’s a wonder anyone actually finds room for the “winegrower’s platter”. Overflowing with cured pork, and garnished with hunks of local cheese or mountains of potato, it comes with the odd pickle tossed incongruously on the plate, as a sop to healthy eating.
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So good are the wines here, that it’s easy to forget the region’s beer. The perfect way to rectify this is to stop for lunch at a Bierstube, taking advantage of the surprisingly dainty measures. Although a third of a pint doesn’t seem quite so restrained at the Vetter Brauhaus in Heidelberg, where they brew a malty 10.5 per cent ABV Doppelbock, best consumed in moderation — along with a pretzel to line your stomach.
Nearby Cologne specialises in Kölsch, a light, straw-coloured, refreshingly hoppy ale that is perfect for sipping in one of the city's many lovely beer gardens. |
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Although this is a far lighter brew, it still pays to be aware of the local tradition by which waiters will refill empty glasses unprompted. To indicate you've had enough, simply place a beer mat over your Stange, the special glass used for this beer.
If beer whets your appetite for something more substantial than a pretzel, Himmel und Erde (literally heaven and earth – a dish of black pudding and mash, topped with apple sauce) is just the thing to fortify yourself for a trip up the 509-step tower of Cologne's cathedral. While across the French border in Strasbourg, tarte flambée (or Flamme-kueche), a crisp pizza-style snack topped with tangy cheese, onions and bacon, makes an equally fine reward for climbing the spire of Notre Dame.
Beer is enjoyed all year round, but the food here is still fiercely seasonal. The fresh produce of the spring and summer will be followed by autumnal game, spicy gingerbread and fiery fruit brandies that are just the ticket for warming the cockles on cool evenings on the river.
From the spectacular flower displays in spring to the merry wine festivals at harvest time, in the Rhineland there's always something to celebrate. So whenever you go, leave your prejudices about German food at home: save space for a bottle of delicious wine or a tin of regional biscuits instead.
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